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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters - by Leo H Holthuijsen & Holthuijsen Leo H (Paperback)

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters - by  Leo H Holthuijsen & Holthuijsen Leo H (Paperback) - image 1 of 1
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters - by  Leo H Holthuijsen & Holthuijsen Leo H (Paperback) - image 1 of 1
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About this item

Specifications

Number of Pages: 404

Genre: Science

Sub-Genre: Earth Sciences

Format: Paperback

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

Book theme: Oceanography

Author: Leo H Holthuijsen & Holthuijsen Leo H

Language: English

Street Date: November 6, 2009
TCIN: 78712178
UPC: 9780521129954
Item Number (DPCI): 247-26-5590

Description

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
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