The Cuban Sandwich - by Andrew T Huse & Bárbara C Cruz & Jeff Houck (Paperback)

About the Book

"How did the Cuban sandwich become a symbol for a displaced people, win the hearts and bellies of America, and claim a spot on menus around the world? The odyssey of the Cubano begins with its hazy origins in the midnight caéfs of Havana, from where it evolved into a dainty high-class hors d'oeuvre and eventually became a hearty street snack devoured by cigar factory workers. In The Cuban Sandwich, three devoted fans--Andrew Huse, áBrbara Cruz, and Jeff Houck--sort through improbable vintage recipes, sift gossip from Florida old-timers, and wade into the fearsome Tampa vs. Miami sandwich debate (is adding salami necessary or heresy?) to reveal the social history behind how this delicacy became a lunch-counter staple in the US and beyond."--Provided by publisher.

Book Synopsis

A delicious, multilayered tale of a legendary sandwich

Florida Book Awards, Gold Medal for Cooking

Creative Loafing Tampa Bay Best of the Bay Awards, "Best Approach to Pressing Matters"

How did the Cuban sandwich become a symbol for a displaced people, win the hearts and bellies of America, and claim a spot on menus around the world? The odyssey of the Cubano begins with its hazy origins in the midnight cafés of Havana, from where it evolved into a dainty high-class hors d'oeuvre and eventually became a hearty street snack devoured by cigar factory workers. In The Cuban Sandwich, three devoted fans--Andrew Huse, Bárbara Cruz, and Jeff Houck--sort through improbable vintage recipes, sift gossip from Florida old-timers, and wade into the fearsome Tampa vs. Miami sandwich debate (is adding salami necessary or heresy?) to reveal the social history behind how this delicacy became a lunch-counter staple in the US and beyond.



The authors also interview artisans who've perfected the high arts of creating and combining expertly baked Cuban bread, sweet ham, savory roast pork, perfectly melted Swiss cheese, and tangy, crunchy pickles. Tips and expert insight for making Cuban sandwiches at home will have readers savoring the history behind each perfect bite.



Publication of this work is made possible by a Sustaining the Humanities through the American Rescue Plan grant from the National Endowment for the Humanities.

Review Quotes

"The book unpacks . . . layers of history like those of the
sandwich itself . . . to understand where it came from and how it has evolved.
It weaves together research and profiles of artisans who are making the
sandwich in different parts of the world today."--NPR

"Trace(s) the sandwich's history not just as a food but as a vital expression of a complex culture, both on the island of Cuba and among the diaspora of its people."--Tampa Bay Times

"Makes it clear the story of the Cuban sandwich is as mixed
up and nuanced as the flavors of the sandwich. . . . The book is told in clean,
bright prose, a pleasure to read."--Miami Herald

"In this new perspective on a passionate, long-standing
contest, University of South Florida academics Huse and Cruz and food writer
Houck suss out the origins of the Cuban sandwich and steer readers through the
intense, fraught debate between Miami's and Tampa's fiercely defended
versions."--Booklist

"An excellent, approachable resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item. Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs."--Library Journal, Starred Review



"A delicious look at Cuban and Cuban American history told through its most iconic meal."--Foreword Reviews



"Gives a detailed description of the Cuban sandwich and at the same time engages the intellectual and historical context of the creation and popularization of this sandwich."--Latino Book Review

"A fun read that will prompt discussion. And many, many
cravings."--Orlando Sentinel

"Not only gives an impressive history of the sandwich but
also offers firsthand accounts from restaurateurs and chefs who have made the
preservation of the Cuban's recipe, authenticity, and lore their mission."--Local
Palate

"In this new perspective on a passionate, long-standing
contest, University of South Florida academics Huse and Cruz and food writer
Houck suss out the origins of the Cuban sandwich and steer readers through the
intense, fraught debate between Miami's and Tampa's fiercely defended versions.
Florida had Cuban settlements long before 1959's Cuban revolution, particularly
in Key West and Tampa. In addition to their cigar-rolling skills, immigrants to
Tampa's Ybor City enclave imported from Havana's late-night eateries the
medianoche (midnight in Spanish): marinated roast pork, ham, cheese, mustard,
and sweet pickles pressed between slices of egg bread. Reimagined on plainer
Cuban bread, it was a Tampa specialty till the explosive growth of Miami's
Cuban community. To this day, the two cities feud over whose sandwich is the
'authentic' Cuban sandwich (Tampa's version adds salami). The Cuban sandwich
has become a phenomenon, spawning many regional variations throughout the U.S.
Even the august America's Test Kitchen has taken on the challenge, using its
technical prowess to analyze, deconstruct, and engineer a perfect Cuban
sandwich."--Booklist

"This title by University of South Florida faculty Huse
(Florida studies) and Bárbara Cruz (social science education) and former Tampa
Tribune food editor Jeff Houck takes readers on a culinary journey. It opens
with the history of colonial Cuba, moves through the waves of migration in the
20th century, and uses the layered Cuban sandwich as a metaphor for the tiers
of identity experienced by generations of Cubans living in the United States.
The authors explore the history of the sandwich through the lens of the modern
diaspora via interviews with well-respected, multigenerational bakers, chefs,
meat packers, and owners of renowned Cuban bakeries, sandwich shops, and
restaurants, while also providing readers with tips and recipes on how to make
their own sandwich at home. VERDICT: The authors note that their research was
limited by pandemic travel restrictions and the dearth of written sources
available in the United States. That said, this is an excellent, approachable
resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item.
Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs."--Library Journal,
Starred Review