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Young Originals - (Costume Society of America) by Rebecca Jumper Matheson (Paperback)

Young Originals - (Costume Society of America) by  Rebecca Jumper Matheson (Paperback) - 1 of 1
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About this item

Highlights

  • In the early 1940s, American designer Emily Wilkens went beyond her previous experience in children's wear to create costumes for two teenage characters in a Broadway play.
  • About the Author: Rebecca Jumper Matheson is a former research assistant at The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and has taught at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
  • 240 Pages
  • Art, Fashion & Accessories
  • Series Name: Costume Society of America

Description



About the Book



"In the early 1940s, American designer Emily Wilkens went beyond her previous experience in children's wear to create costumes for two teenage characters in a Broadway play. Recognizing the growing importance of the teenager in American culture, she soon launched Emily Wilkens Young Originals, the first designer label specializing in upscale, fashionable clothing for teenage girls. Within the space of a few years, Wilkens skyrocketed from obscurity to national recognition, yet even today many fashion insiders would not recognize her name. Fashion historian Rebecca Jumper Matheson explores intertwining stories of female agency through the history of Wilkens and her teenage clientele. Wilkens retained both artistic and business control over her label in an era when most American ready-to-wear designers were anonymous employees of manufacturers. Wilkens parleyed her relative youth into a big-sister image which, like her dresses themselves, allowed her to mediate between the concerns of her teenage clients and their parents. Contrary to popular wisdom, Wilkens's designs declared that even a teenager could be fashionable. In doing so, Wilkens laid the foundation for the seismic shift that would occur later in the twentieth century, when youth became the fashionable ideal. Young Originals traces Wilkens's career from fashion illustrator in the 1930s to spa and beauty expert in the 1980s, emphasizing her consistent ideal of healthy, youthful beauty"--



Book Synopsis



In the early 1940s, American designer Emily Wilkens went beyond her previous experience in children's wear to create costumes for two teenage characters in a Broadway play. Recognizing the growing importance of the teenager in American culture, she soon launched Emily Wilkens Young Originals, the first designer label specializing in upscale, fashionable clothing for teenage girls. Within the space of a few years, Wilkens skyrocketed from obscurity to national recognition, yet even today many fashion insiders would not recognize her name. Fashion historian Rebecca Jumper Matheson explores intertwining stories of female agency through the history of Wilkens and her teenage clientele. Wilkens retained both artistic and business control over her label in an era when most American ready-to-wear designers were anonymous employees of manufacturers. Wilkens parleyed her relative youth into a big-sister image which, like her dresses themselves, allowed her to mediate between the concerns of her teenage clients and their parents. Contrary to popular wisdom, Wilkens's designs declared that even a teenager could be fashionable. In doing so, Wilkens laid the foundation for the seismic shift that would occur later in the twentieth century, when youth became the fashionable ideal. Young Originals traces Wilkens's career from fashion illustrator in the 1930s to spa and beauty expert in the 1980s, emphasizing her consistent ideal of healthy, youthful beauty.



Review Quotes




Young Originals is a model of fashion history research, combining cultural, historical, psychological, and economic overviews in an engaging and readable way. Matheson connects Emily Wilkens to key moments in 1940s design and shows how the way she targeted the emerging teenage market was at the root of the Youth Quake of the 1960s. Wilkens was an award-winning designer who has more or less faded into obscurity, and there is a real need for her story to be told. Matheson captures the essence of this remarkable woman and her times.
--Denyse Montegut, chairperson of the Fashion and Textile Studies department, School of Graduate Studies, Fashion Institute of Technology



About the Author



Rebecca Jumper Matheson is a former research assistant at The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and has taught at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She is the author of The Sunbonnet: An American Icon in Texas (TTUP, 2009). She lives in New York City.
Dimensions (Overall): 8.9 Inches (H) x 6.0 Inches (W) x .6 Inches (D)
Weight: .75 Pounds
Suggested Age: 22 Years and Up
Number of Pages: 240
Genre: Art
Sub-Genre: Fashion & Accessories
Series Title: Costume Society of America
Publisher: Texas Tech University Press
Format: Paperback
Author: Rebecca Jumper Matheson
Language: English
Street Date: June 15, 2015
TCIN: 88984168
UPC: 9780896729247
Item Number (DPCI): 247-57-8953
Origin: Made in the USA or Imported
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Shipping details

Estimated ship dimensions: 0.6 inches length x 6 inches width x 8.9 inches height
Estimated ship weight: 0.75 pounds
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