Kanpai - by Eric C Rath (Hardcover)

Book Synopsis

Lift a glass to the story of sake--from Japanese homebrew to global phenomenon.

Sake, Japan's iconic rice-based alcoholic drink, has been central to Japanese culture for over 1,300 years. Traditionally made with rice, water, and koji mold, it was consumed in early brewpubs and was vital to samurai rituals and festivals. Sake's story includes homebrewers like clan matriarchs, ancient princes, and modern political activists who defied laws to keep homebrewing alive. Temples refined sake-making techniques, laying the foundation for a thriving industry that became a major economic force for shoguns and the modern state.

Kanpai is the first history of sake in English, exploring its evolution from homebrew to flavored varieties, and its cultural significance and global rise--including its growing popularity and production in North America and Europe. The book also shows how sake has shaped Japanese food, society, and traditions.

Review Quotes

"Rath, an experienced scholar of Japanese food history, has written an engaging and authoritative study of Japan's most iconic beverage. Drawing on reliable sources and cultural insight, he situates sake at the intersection of agriculture, ritual, technology, and everyday life. . . . The discussion balances technical clarity with cultural storytelling, assisted by beautiful illustrations. . . . A rich, insightful, and highly readable history. Recommended."

-- "Choice"

"Covering a rich range of sake styles and makers, Kanpai is a surprisingly easy read. Rath's history brings to light the key players in sake's evolution: monks, imperial guilds, shrine maidens, and the many women who brewed sake in makeshift home distilleries despite being excluded from official guilds. His treatment of the political sake guilds--and the drama surrounding them--makes the history unexpectedly compelling, leaving readers clamouring. Throughout, he intersperses photos showcasing sake culture, alongside finely rendered details from Japanese scrolls and ancient izakaya, tracing the evolution of sake flasks and accessories. Rath is a storyteller. His measured tone and immersive style make the subject accessible yet deftly handled, balancing scholarship with a curious narrative. Kanpai!"

--Sher Hackwell "Culinary Historians of Canada's Digestible Bits and Bites"

"This compact publication is nevertheless fascinating, tracing sake's evolution over two millennia and its place in Japanese history - from why it was once made almost exclusively by women to how medieval samurai had their own version of 'splitting the G' (ensuring that the line between the head of a freshly poured Guinness and the beer beneath bisects the word Guinness on the pint glass after your first sip)."

-- "Decanter"

"Rath's new book opens the door with history, told in an approachable way. Readers get drawn into the story and pretty soon the complications start to make sense. It doesn't hurt that the heavy coated stocks makes the beautiful illustrations pop of the page. . . . His book is clear and interesting and taught me a lot I didn't know about Sake and about Japan."

--Mike Veseth "The Wine Economist"

"There are many books on sake these days, but none like Kanpai, which takes us through the annals of the history of sake, from medieval temple sake recipes to sociopolitical factors that influenced sake legislation, and from the history of izakaya to the industry today outside of Japan: the breadth and scope of sake lore makes for a fascinating read."--John Gauntner, author of "Sake Confidential" and co-founder and managing editor of "Sake Today"

"Japan's national beverage has achieved global renown, but its origins and practices are still shrouded in mystery. For those who want to learn more about sake, there can be no better guide than Rath. This authoritative and entertaining book leads us from the drinking games of medieval samurai to the rope curtains of modern izakaya."--Jeffrey M. Pilcher, University of Toronto

"A vivid history."-- "Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, on "Oishii""

"An enticing title. . . . Extensively and well researched, using numerous sources from both historical and current data, and brims with fascinating and often amusing anecdotes told in a nonacademic, light writing style."-- "NIKKEI Asia, on "Oishii""

"Rath's writing is light, unhampered by the weight of academia. He interjects personal asides, recalling tastes and experiences that add sparkle to his chronology."-- "Japan Times, on "Oishii""

"While Rath's text is eminently accessible to the food studies beginner, it offers bold insights for the Japanese culinary expert as well."-- "Journal of Japanese Studies, on "Oishii""

About the Author

Eric C. Rath is professor of history at the University of Kansas. His books include Oishii: The History of Sushi, also published by Reaktion Books.